Empire Avenue

Tuesday, February 28, 2012


Europe is such a rich tapestry - so many cultures so many tastes,so many places and people to get to know.
For most Western Europeans and North Americans, the Balkans is not likely to be on their shortlist for a family holiday.
That's a real shame.
Over the next 5 months, I will be sharing with you our plans for our holiday which will include Serbia, Montenegro and Bosnia.
Five years ago we visited Montenegro and fell in love with its beautiful coast and majestic highlands.
I hope some of the ideas, the places, the food and the people I write about will make you consider the Balkans as a destination.
If you have questions - bang them down in the comments section and I will do my best to answer them.
Right - let's get started.
So that's 1,310 km or about 18 hours driving - so breaking that down into manageable chunks will be key.
There will be two cars, four adults and four kids on this trip - Vuk and Ana Mirkovic, Betty H and myself, Niall H (10), Daragh H (8), Mia M (6), Uros M (2) - this has to work for the kids - if they are happy - we will be happy.
So the trip works like this.....
Cork, Ireland to Heathrow, Greater London - 555 km 1 hour 28 minutes
Heathrow to Nikola Tesla Airport, Belgrade 1,701 km   - 2hrs 48 minutes
I really wish Ryanair flew direct - it would be as close as Rome and just as fascinating a destination
We will be met by the Mirkovic clan and drive in from the airport to the city a short 12 km motorway journey
Our base in Belgrade will be Hotel Nevski
Next morning we will head south to Latkovac  - here is a nice walk through video 
Founded by Serbia's Female Entrepreneur of the year Sanja Knezevic - Ana Mirkovic's sister.
Its a lovely story, this was a tiny derelict hamlet that for over 200 years has been home to the Knezevic family.
Sanja has restored almost all the buildings to their original glory and has created an idyll in what is considered the heart of Serbia.
It's peace, organic traditional food and gentle hospitality attracts visitors from around the world.
Its Artists Colony is one of the most valued in South East Europe.
We are going to chill here for four days - more details on what we plan to get up to later.
We might have some of this food and some of this and this to partner with it!
Then an early start and off for breakfast in one of the most intriguing cities in Europe. Novi Pazar is mostly populated by Moslim Slavs, Bosniaks.
The way of life here allows you to sense what life was like in Turkish Europe, minarets outnumber churches vastly and the pace and details of daily life are unlike any other city in Serbia.
From there we take off on a 328 km journey to reach the Montenegrin Adriatic coast. Initially we drive parallel to the Kosovo border and then cross the border driving along its border with Albania. The journey is mountainous and extremely beautiful.
As we emerge on the other side of the highlands we arrive at Podgorica, the capital. Its a sleepy city and although I have very happy memories of working there over the last ten years- I am going to be impatient to get to the coast - which is one of the world's most extraordinary destinations.
We will take the relatively new Tunnel which cuts the time from Podgorica to the coast down to 1hr.
Then we will arrive at our villa/appt/hotel (the two wives will tell us which one and where shortly).
Apart from eating amazing food and drink, and plopping down on sandy beaches -  we will spend seven days exploring the coast.
We will visit Kotor Bay  Budva,  Petrovac,  UlcinjCetinje, Przno . It sounds daunting but Montenegro, or Crna Gora in the Serbo-Croat is a relatively small coastline to move up and down.
When our week on the beach is over - we will be on the move again.
This trip brings us to the Drina River - and to a famous bridge in Visegrad.
We will spend a day on the river and then move on to beautiful Zlatibor - we will spend three days in the area.
From Zlatibor we will move on to Sarajevo - really looking forward to that.
Then one last road trip  -back to Belgrade
We will be there for five days - Doing AdaDoing the Fortress, Heading to gorgeous Zemun and Novi Sad among other things like.....eating and hanging out
I am exhausted just writing this!!
In the weeks ahead I will be writing blogs in more detail about the various parts of the trip and linking to them from here.
Feel free to give your feedback - feel free to share your experiences and ask for more information or clarification.
Vidimo se!

Wednesday, February 15, 2012

End of the Rainbow - an introduction to Richard Thompson


If you only sample one new songwriter's work in 2012 - make it Richard Thompson. 
Here are a bunch of jumping off points....
http://www.richardthompson-music.com/
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Richard_Thompson_(musician)

BBC Documentary

Newstalk BBC review
Here are some of my favourite youtube moments


Friday, December 30, 2011

OCCUPY LANGUAGE
I heard Theo Dorgan on Matt Cooper’s show on Today FM. There were four very noisy ten year olds in the car – all speaking at the same time as Theo. I still knew I was listening to something really important – and I want to share it – and I hope you will share it. ” We don’t know what we want, but we don’t want this shit” – this was a tweet from some fan of the occupy movement. The inchoate frustration is interesting – but it won’t change anything. Dorgan says ” When you change language you change reality” He talks about the disconnect between the state and the citizen. He talks here too about how we in Ireland imported the nature of state from Britain wholesale and without any discourse about what kind of Republic we wanted back at the foundation of the state…and that now as it all collapses around us, once again we are shirking responsibility as citizens to re-imagine the Republic. Of course, the issues addressed are much broader than Irish. Once again there is a breakdown of consensus on the nature of political society. Each time this has happened in history poets and writers have played a key role in focusing the inchoate into language, into ideas, into a reality that we ordinary folk can sign up to. The emergence of nationalism in 19th century Europe including our own relentless journey from a nation to a state was driven more by poetry and writing than by guns and warriors. I include the radio interview and his earlier speech in UCC. I feel optimistic. I was afraid Ireland was moving back towards stasis and mediocrity. It can’t as long as people like Theo have a voice and an audience.
Matt Cooper Today FM - UCC speech 2000UCC speech 2010 “Now is the season to know that everything you do is sacred” — Hafiz Today is an important day in the life of the Republic. A huge human investment has gone into the processes that have brought you here: all those who have fed and nurtured you, all those who have taught you, studied with you, befriended you, loved you, share today in what is by any standards a considerable achievement. You are citizens of a Republic, and this Republic has underwritten, made possible, your achievements. You are already, and have been for some time, privileged human beings: the wealth which others have generated has been placed at your disposal so that you may make the best of the talents you were born with. And you yourselves have made, perhaps, the greatest investment: you have put your lives so far into the work of educating yourselves, each of you has taken the one and only life you have and invested it in a dream of the future. You feel a sense, perhaps, of accomplishment. A sense of vindication. A sense of relief. And, if you are to be accurate, a sense of loss, too, because a whole phase of your life is over. Each of you must feel, in some crucial sense, very much on your own today. From now on, what happens will be as a result of your choices. From now on, you are responsible for what becomes of you. But I would like you also to consider this: more than has been the case before today, what happens to all of us now will be shaped by what you do, the choices you make, the ways you conduct yourselves as citizens. And because you are privileged, because your education confers on you a certain access to power in this society, what you say and do, what you become, will have an added force. Today, your responsibilities deepen. Education is a curious thing. We derive it from the Latin, e-ducere, to lead out. We need to ask some questions about this, I think: who is being led, who is doing the leading, from where are we being led out, and into what? In some sense one is being led out of childhood, the extended childhood that is a mark of the western democracies in our time. One is also being led out of a presumed ignorance, into the light of learning. The model this etymology suggests is essentially authoritarian, it presumes a settled society, a certain naivety on the part of the student, a certain possession of learning on the part of the teacher, a chain of transmission, and therefore transformation, linking both. I am not so sure that this model holds in the present day. It suggests a continuity that is essentially human, it suggests a process where the wise and accomplished devote their lives to nurturing the humanity of the young, the end in view being the deepening of our human understanding of ourselves and others. We live, however, in a problematic reality now, the variousness of what lives and dies only fitfully seen behind the lightning clouds of a consumer economy, the music of what happens drowned out by the roaring and screeching of an economy that has lost the run of itself. This Republic has invested time and money and human care in your formation, but somehow has lost itself along the way. Most of your exact contemporaries in the world today are born into poverty, in many cases extreme poverty. A huge number of them live under the rule of oppressive regimes, many of them face lives of powerlessness, of vain struggle, of hardship and the slow death of hope. We, on the other hand, live in comparative liberty, we are privileged politically, socially and materially as no nation on the face of the earth has ever been. On the face of it. We have gross inequalities here in Ireland, and I see them becoming grosser, and each of you must ask herself and himself what it is you wish to do about that. But, in essence, we are free. We share fully in the conditional freedoms of the Western democracies. The challenge you face now, as citizens of a Republic, is what to do with these freedoms. The period of your life whose passing we are marking today has been a period of initiation. If you have been fortunate, as I was fortunate here, you will have met real teachers, women and men who will have encouraged in you what Hegel refers to as the particular courage of taking thought, of reflecting on your situation, your capacities and your desires. Some of you live in an unexamined way, and will be like this until you die, or until life shocks you into being awake; some of you were born with questions on your lips, and will die asking questions. Most of you, like most of us, will make sporadic attempts to understand this life, but will end up making those tiny accomodations that eat the soul, agreeing with one another that we can’t be always worrying about things, we have to be getting on with the practical realities. What I wish for you today, on the threshold of this new phase of your lives, is courage. The courage to push yourselves beyond the incidental drives of the ego, the courage to dare yourselves, every day of your lives, to become more fully human. The courage to live in the light of Auden’s famous dictum, “we must love one another or die”. The courage to pursue wisdom and justice in all that you are and in all that you do. The courage to become, in the proudest possible sense, citizens of a Republic. The great Russian poet, Boris Pasternak, tells us “to live your life is not so simple as to cross a field”. He’s right, of course. Life happens to us, and we struggle to make the best of it. Most of the time we get on with it, making it up as we go along. I don’t mean for a moment to suggest that this is a bad thing, far from it. I have no idea where we came from, not the least idea where we’re going. Like you, I want more than anything else to enjoy this life, to enjoy this strange world in which we find ourselves, “the richness of things being various”. My only use to you today is to say this: once I sat where you sit now, conscious of great kindnesses that were done to me here, conscious of privilege, impatient to be gone from here. I wanted more of everything -wine, dope, sex, work, company, love; I wanted poems above all, not to be a poet but to have the in eradicable joy of making poems. I knew what I wanted, or thought I did, and I couldn’t wait to get on with it. And buried deep inside that passionate appetite for life was a barely-acknowledged truth: I wanted to know, I wanted, though I wouldn’t have used the words then, to be wise. I have spent my life since then in a stumbling pursuit of wisdom. I live here, in Ireland, in these complex and turbulent times. I have lived elsewhere, and will again, but this is my nation and this is where I must teach myself to be human. For all its glaring faults, its petty failings, its dull and mostly illiterate ruling class, this Republic, this place we share in space and time and history, is the stage on which we must shape and act our parts. I hope, of course, that some generous impulse in your minds and hearts will lead you to play a conscious part in shaping the world we live in. I hope that you will not be beaten down, that the shocks of life will not wear away your courage and passion. There will be bitterness and there will be joy and there will be, inevitably, a great deal of confusion. But let us agree to say at the end of things “I have lived as best I could have, I have done what good was in my power. I lived as a free and generous human being”. I leave you with these words of the 14th century Persian poet, Hafiz: “Now is the season to know that everything you do is sacred” — Hafiz

Saturday, November 12, 2011

At your wake, your life will not be measured by your bank balance

20 minutes chat about creating value, Mongolian Vodka, Lean Startup and more.. Recording courtesy of Bernie Goldbach - @topgold http://huffduffer.com/topgold/55663 Picture courtesy of Philip O'Rourke @piperhawk

Wednesday, October 26, 2011

A kick up the Aras

Value politics and the Presidency I have a very simple belief system when it comes to business or life in general. The rules of the game are: You create value You distribute value You capture some of that value for yourself If you live a good life, you create more value than you capture For my children, I want a state that provides the infrastructure physical and cultural that allows them to create plenty of value for their community. I know that if they do, they will capture enough value to make the choices they need, and to offer their children all the choices they need. Let’s leave the physical infrastructure to one side – that job is for government. Let’s focus instead on the cultural infrastructure. This is anchored by beliefs that are shared by the vast majority of a nation. The beliefs we sign up to in Ireland include: Equal rights regardless of birth, gender, race, creed or indeed access to dominant political organisations Practical ethics in business and in private life A commitment by citizens that balances personal liberty with the needs of the Nation and State Its not a long list. There may be more but let’s consider the role of the President in regard to this list. I have had a number of discussions on twitter and offline about Sean Gallagher. I don’t know him from a bar of soap, and I have nothing against the man. One business guy suggested to me that every businessman in Ireland would do exactly what it is being suggested SG did in relation to tax. “Ripping the arse out of the tax code is a key skill in Irish business” is exactly how it was put to me. That is not a sustainable model of business ethics, and that will become clear when the cute hoors not paying their fair share of tax go looking for college places for their kids, or visit their mum as she lies in a corridor on a trolley. http://www.irishtimes.com/newspaper/ireland/2011/0624/1224299525409.html I don’t want to live in that country. If a President does not sign up to the cultural infrastructure we want for Ireland, how can you expect others to do so. We elect a President to reflect what’s great about our country. Sean Gallagher’s campaign stood for “Hope” and “Positivity”. Its what Ireland is crying out for, and its no surprise that he won a lot of support. It is why Charles Haughey was elected, it is why Bertie Ahern was elected. “Questions are like the knocks of beggarmen, and should not be minded.” ― Flann O'Brien I don’t want to live in that country. I was struck also by the €5k paid by GAA clubs to SG in order to copper fasten grant aid. "He was inside with Fianna Fail and the ministers and (he had) the inside track, he had been (Dr Rory) O'Hanlon's secretary. Once you got him to do it, you were going to get the grant.” According to sources in this article. http://www.independent.ie/national-news/presidential-election/gallagher-charged-gaa-clubs-up-to-euro5000-for-grants-advice-2915300.html That’s the Ireland my Dad grew up in. Access to a small elite – not your ability or your application decided your fate and the fate of your enterprise. I have worked in developing countries where that logic reaches its inevitable end point, where corruption crushes initiative and turns good people into ex-pats. It has a habit of breaking the people who stay and have the capacity to change countries like Ireland – I think of Noel Browne especially when I write this. The human waste of our generations, the ‘40’s, the ‘50’s, the ‘60’s the ‘70’s, my own generation who left in the ‘80’s – is incalculable. In this period, Europe rebuilt itself, America reimagined itself and our best and our brightest built rich lives invested in Nations far from home. Ireland stagnated. I don’t want to live in that country. In business I have found myself in the company of what Flann O’Brien would call sleeveens. I have seen close up the self delusion with regards to their ability; the cuteness built on a presumption that the rest of us are too thick to catch them out; the expectation that even though its wrong, they will get away with it, and there will be a great story to tell about that close brush with moral consequences. Taking these guys down requires a lot of effort and personal sacrifice. On Thursday, all you have to do is vote. A vote for Sean Gallagher is a vote for the Ireland our parents grew up in. I don’t want to live in that country.

Wednesday, October 19, 2011

Steve Jobs and adoption

Being adopted is a challenge.

Half of those who seek out their birth parents, really wished they had not.

Building a successful relationship with any parent takes decades of trial and error, love and mutual respect.

Its hardly surprising that without that platform, relationships with newly discovered birth parents don't always work out.

I am adopted - my real parents are Betty & Tadhg Hannigan.

My birthparents are very real too - but I have not sought them out.

I respect them and thank them for giving me the life I have.

I don't feel any urge to have a relationship with them beyond that.

It does not feel right.

It seems unlikely we would have the ingredients for a valuable relationship.

I think that's probably how Steve Jobs felt.

http://online.wsj.com/article_email/SB10001424052970203499704576620911395191694-lMyQjAxMTAxMDAwOTEwNDkyWj.html?fb_ref=wsj_share_FB&fb_source=home_multiline